When I started sharing photos of all the things to do in the North Carolina mountains, my messages blew up. Friend after friend reached out saying they knew the area well, and many named the exact restaurants and stops I’d just posted as their favorites.
Outside of Asheville, I honestly didn’t know much about this part of western North Carolina before this trip. Now I get why so many people I know keep going back, and I’m already planning my own return.
I traveled with colleagues on a media trip hosted by Visit Haywood County, and the experiences in this article were complimentary as media. All opinions are my own.
Some links in this article are affiliate links that may earn me a commission if you purchase through them.
Getting to the North Carolina Mountains
Waynesville, Maggie Valley, Canton, Clyde, and Lake Junaluska sit in Haywood County, about 45 minutes west of Asheville. It’s an easy drive, and the North Carolina side of Great Smoky Mountains National Park is right next door.
Asheville Regional Airport (AVL) is the closest, about 30 to 45 minutes from Waynesville. Greenville-Spartanburg (GSP) is about an hour and 15 minutes away.
If a bigger hub gives you a better flight or you’re combining this with a larger road trip, Charlotte is about two and a half hours away, and Nashville is about four and a half hours.
Plenty of people find this area by driving the Blue Ridge Parkway and pulling off to explore. Waynesville and Maggie Valley are just minutes from the Parkway, so either one makes an easy home base for big hiking days and slower days alike.
Get Outside in the Smoky and Blue Ridge Mountains
See the Elk in Cataloochee Valley
Cataloochee Valley in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park was a major highlight of my trip, and I’m telling everyone not to miss it. We went for elk, and we saw more than I ever dreamed we would.
The herd included a bull and at least 12 cows, plus two young elk that still had their spots. They grazed in a field with no official parking, so cars just pulled off to the side of the road to watch.
It was magical and majestic. I could have spent the whole evening watching the bull herd his cows while the babies napped.
Plan for Cataloochee Valley to take a good part of your day. Getting in and back out takes 45 minutes to an hour of slow, careful driving, and if you hike while you’re there, it easily becomes a full day.
The road in is narrow and twisty with plenty of ups and downs, and a good long stretch of it is unpaved. It isn’t scary like driving along some of the mountains in Europe, but you definitely need to pay attention.
You can drive through without paying, but you need a parking tag if you stop anywhere for more than 15 minutes. Daily tags are $5 and weekly tags are $15. Buy yours online before you go, since you won’t have signal once you’re there.
Go early in the day or closer to sunset, when elk come out of the forest shade to graze. A midday visit, especially on a warm day, makes it much less likely you’ll spot them, and you don’t want to miss it.
Stay at least 50 yards (150 feet) from the elk. They’re wild, unpredictable animals, and getting close enough to disturb them is illegal in the park, with fines and even arrest possible.
We watched several people walk way too close, and they were lucky there were no incidents this time. Don’t be those people.
Our hosts told us they don’t usually see elk this close. That’s exactly why I love my Nocs monocular, though I forgot to pack it for this trip. It’s easy to feel like you’re right there without getting close, and it’s so much easier to carry than binoculars.
There’s no cell service in Cataloochee, so download your maps and plan your stops before you go. This is especially important if you plan to hike so you know which trails to choose.
Catch Sunrise at Waterrock Knob
We made it to Waterrock Knob for sunrise, and even on a cloudy morning, it was worth the early wake-up call. It’s at milepost 451.2 on the Blue Ridge Parkway, and its 6,292-foot summit is one of the highest peaks in the eastern United States.
You don’t have to hike to enjoy it. The parking area offers views to the east and west, picnic tables, a visitor center, and restrooms, and it’s one of the best places in the North Carolina mountains to watch a sunrise or sunset because you can see in both directions.
If you hike, it’s an out-and-back trail to the summit that gains another 412 feet in elevation. The first quarter is paved and ends at an overlook, and then the trail turns to dirt. On a clear day, you can see up to 50 miles from the top.
After the sun came up, we were lucky enough to see a fogbow. Fog and clouds sat at different elevations all around us, and some looked like lakes in the distance until we looked closer and realized they were clouds.
Mountain mornings are chilly, and the weather shifts fast up high, so dress in layers you can peel off as you go. The layering approach in my Patagonia packing list works just as well here.
Drive the Blue Ridge Parkway and Hike Black Balsam
The Blue Ridge Parkway runs more than 460 miles without a single stoplight, and the stretch near the towns that comprise Haywood County is gorgeous. Pull-offs and parking are available along the way, so you can stop whenever a view catches your eye.
You’ll pass plenty of trailheads, too. Some hikes are easy, and some are more challenging, and trailhead signs generally list the length and difficulty, so you can plan ahead or decide on the spot.
Black Balsam in the Pisgah National Forest is a great place to start, with several trails from one access area. I really enjoyed the Art Loeb Trail, a moderate hike that doesn’t require any significant experience.
We hiked the first portion, which took about a half hour each way, but the trail continued with a steeper incline past that point for a longer hike. You can spend a couple of hours or the entire day out there at whatever level feels comfortable.
Easy Days and Rainy Day Backups
Not every day has to be a big hiking day. When it rains or your legs need a break from strenuous trails, there’s plenty to do in the area that keeps everyone entertained.
Spend an Afternoon at Lake Junaluska
Lake Junaluska is a great place to walk, with gorgeous paths that loop around the water. You can rent paddleboards or kayaks, and the six swan boats are a relatively new addition that everyone seems to love.
The location has a great playground for kids, plus tennis and pickleball courts. You can also fish from designated spots on the lake, but you need a North Carolina fishing license, so buy it ahead of time.
Check the full list of Lake Junaluska activities to plan your visit. You can also stay at a variety of lodgings and make this a central base for your stay right on Lake Junaluska.
Wheels Through Time Museum in Maggie Valley
I don’t know much about motorcycles, but Wheels Through Time left me more than a little fascinated. It’s one of the area’s biggest attractions, just five miles off the Blue Ridge Parkway.
The museum holds a huge collection of rare American motorcycles plus one-of-a-kind American cars. Staff said they have close to 400 machines now, spread across two floors and 38,000 square feet, so you can wander at your own pace.
The sections take you from the earliest bikes to custom choppers, competition bikes, and more. As you go, look for the staff on the floor.
They’re happy to tell stories about the bikes and the collection, and I could have listened for hours. My favorite story was about a motorcycle found walled up in a Chicago building, and I don’t want to spoil it for you, so definitely ask about that one.
They keep every bike in the museum in running order. Just ask, and they’ll start up pretty much any bike on the floor. They explain the steps it takes to start each one and why, along with the technology behind them, something I had never thought about before.
Tour the Shelton House in Waynesville
Shelton House is a museum with a fantastic collection of North Carolina history and local crafts. The rooms, from the living room and bedroom to the bathroom and kitchen, are set up the way they would have been historically, and the local craftsmanship throughout gives each one real personality.
You can take a free self-guided tour, but I highly recommend the paid docent-led tour. You’d miss so much without his insight, and again, the stories are what bring the places to life and make them worth the visit.
Don’t skip the barn, which holds even more crafts and examples of local art. I do pottery, so I was fascinated by all the different designs and characteristics both there and in the house. I want to try recreating a few at my studio, though I know mine won’t come anywhere close to what these artisans made.
William Taylor Shelton, a son of the family who built the house, spent a lot of time teaching in New Mexico. He brought back incredibly detailed Navajo blankets and other crafts, and they’re lovingly displayed in the museum.
It’s interesting to see the similarities and differences in craftsmanship from North Carolina to New Mexico. He taught there for years and received many gifts from his students and others in the community, which he brought back to his birthplace when he returned.
Walk an Alpaca in Waynesville
Winchester Creek Farm is just past downtown Waynesville and has been there since 2019. It’s home to 16 alpacas and two llamas, plus cows, pigs, mini donkeys, mini horses, chickens, and ducks.
Should I have led with this one? Maybe.
We did the walk and talk, which you’ll need to reserve online ahead of time. You pick your own alpaca and walk it on a lead rope while you learn about the alpacas and the other animals along the way.
I walked Tinkerbell, who is absolutely adorable and such a sweetheart. As you walk by the pastures, many of the other animals run over to greet you, so you can say hello, which is fun.
At the end, you get to feed them, and they also bring over some of their (very tame) chickens to introduce to us, which you can pet if you want. Of course, there are hand-washing stations before you leave.
Don’t skip the farm store, which is where you check in for the walk and talk. It has alpaca everything, plus a ton of local and farm-themed gifts, including eggs from their chickens and ducks.
The farm also offers alpaca yoga, which sounds like a lot of fun. I suspect that much like goat and puppy yoga, I’d get a lot less yoga and a lot more snuggling in that session.
Make Your Own Candles in Canton
You may have spotted Willow Hill Soap Company products at Buc-ee’s, as they are a very successful and well-known brand. At their Canton shop, you can buy their 100 percent soy candles and soaps or sign up for a candle-making class.
We loved the class, where you pick a scent from their options and make two candles. You learn how to measure the wax, add the fragrance so your candle sets properly, and pour.
It lasts about 45 minutes, and it’s a fantastic souvenir. I chose the ginger and spice scent, and I love it.
Classes usually cap at six people, but they can host up to 24 for special occasions. Kids can even join with adult supervision, so it’s fun for the whole family.
Your candles need to set overnight, so you pick them up the next day, or they can ship them to you if needed. Don’t plan this for your very last day so you have time to pick them up. And yes, you can take candles in your carry-on bags.
They also shared candle tips that I wish I had learned years ago. I always feel like candles don’t last as long as they should, but they explained how to maximize their burn time.
Burn your candle one to four hours at a time, long enough for the wax to melt to the edges but not so long that it burns down too far. Trim the wick to 1/4 inch each time you light it, as well.
Take a Mocktail Class in Waynesville
We had the most amazing mocktails at Roll Up Herbal Bar in Waynesville. The owner, Sam, is an absolute delight. She’s a former bartender who believes mocktails deserve as much attention as their boozy brethren, and you can taste it in each drink she creates.
She has real street cred, too. Sam placed in the top three in the national Zero-Proof Cocktail Competition, and Roll Up earned 3rd Best Craft Cocktail in the Best of Haywood County, Best Queer Owned Food/Bev from HayCo Pride, and the Haywood County Chamber of Commerce’s Woman-Owned Business of the Year.
We learned the flavor components that give a mocktail the balance that makes you want to keep drinking, and how to create our own. If you have a group, book one of her 90-minute private experiences for real skills you can use at home.
Intro to Mocktails includes a welcome drink and hands-on shaking and drink building, with plenty of tasting and questions along the way. No bar experience needed, and it’s a ton of fun.
The Shakeup Smackdown is the party version, with less lecture and more fun. After a quick rundown, you’re set loose with scratch-made ingredients, garnishes, and bar tools, and the guest of honor picks winners, including the coveted Don’t Quit Your Day Job award. It’s perfect for birthdays and bachelorette parties.
Both cost $500 for up to eight people, plus $35 per person after that. Even if you skip a class, stop in for a truly delicious and unique mocktail or coffee.
Pick Flowers and Eat Pizza in Canton
Ten Acre Garden in Canton is a cute farmstand with tons of local goods and produce. Even when people don’t come for the u-pick, they visit for the pizza trailer out back, where they make incredible pizzas to order.
We ordered the Farm Fresh with basil pesto sauce, cherry tomatoes, roasted artichoke hearts, arugula, fresh mozzarella, and pecorino romano, along with two other pizzas to share. I almost skipped the seasonal special, and I’m so glad I didn’t.
When we visited, the special pizza was apple candy roaster, with a sauce made from candy roaster squash (a squash that was new to me), roasted apples, bacon, caramelized onions, brie, mozzarella, pecorino, sage, and a balsamic glaze. It was hands down everyone’s favorite, which surprised all of us.
The pizzas change often, as they use seasonal ingredients. If you’re a traditionalist, you can order their plain cheese and pepperoni options, too. Keep in mind that these pizzas come in only one size, and it’s plenty big enough to share.
Eat your pizza at the farm’s adorable picnic tables. They also offer a small play area for kids to keep them occupied, and they often have live music and performances on weekends.
U-pick is a big part of what they do. Depending on the season, you can pick strawberries and blackberries, fill a container with wildflowers, or pick daffodils and tulips in spring. Dahlias bloom from late July until the first frost in early October, and the sunflower maze runs through July and August.
We went at the end of sunflower season in early October, so the sunflower maze wasn’t at its peak, but it was still worth seeing. On the other hand, the dahlias were huge and gorgeous, with more varieties than I’ve ever seen.
Where to Stay
I split my stay between two very different locations, each suited to a different kind of trip. Fall is a busy time in the mountains, so book early if you’re going for the leaves.
Wildrest Hotel in Waynesville
Wildrest Hotel is just a minute or two outside downtown Waynesville, but it feels like you’re miles away in a quiet oasis. I loved feeling connected to nature without having to drive far to get it.
I stayed in Room 8, which has one king bed and wood paneling throughout, so it felt like a cozy cabin in the mountains. The front and back windows swing inward in two panels, giving you a great cross breeze.
The room has an adorable farmhouse sink, plus a mini-fridge, microwave, and coffee maker. The bed was comfortable, and I had plenty of outlets for everything I needed.
Instead of a key, you get a door code at check-in, which I liked because for once I didn’t have to worry about setting my key down and forgetting it. There’s no daily housekeeping, but the staff is responsive if you need anything.
Know before you book that you climb steps to reach the rooms and the bathrooms are small, so this isn’t an accessible option. You can see the whole room in my Wildrest Hotel room tour on YouTube.
Lambuth Inn at Lake Junaluska
I stayed at the Lambuth Inn for a few days during a travel writers conference before this press trip, and the lake views are incredible. The price is very reasonable, too.
The inn is popular for meetings, retreats, and groups, and it has a summer-camp feel that fits the whole Lake Junaluska experience. Go in expecting that vibe, and you’ll have a great stay.
Rooms face either the gardens or the lake, with bed setups from twins to kings and lots of combinations in between, so there’s something for just about any preference. Confirm your exact bed type when you book, since my lakeside room had two doubles instead of the two queens I expected based on my confirmation.
There’s no daily housekeeping, so leave your towels or trash outside your door, and they’ll swap them out. They mention this at check-in, since it isn’t what most people expect at a hotel, but it fits the summer camp vibe.
Outlets are limited, and there wasn’t one by my bed. Bring an extension cord, especially if you use a CPAP, because the closest outlets are across the room.
You can see the lakeside room I stayed in with my Lambuth Inn room tour on YouTube.
Lake Junaluska also has other lodging options, including The Terrace Hotel and vacation rentals where your whole crew can share a house.
Where to Eat
Joey’s Pancake House in Maggie Valley
You have to have pancakes at Joey’s Pancake House. I’m not usually a big pancake fan and almost skipped these, but I’m so glad I ordered them.
They’ve been named the top pancake in North Carolina and the top breakfast restaurant in western North Carolina, and they ranked sixth out of 100 restaurants across both Carolinas. Locals and tourists love it, and the crowd proves it, though the wait moves quickly once you put your name in.
I ordered the orange blackberry ricotta pancakes. The orange-zested pancakes and blackberry compote were heaven, though I could have skipped the mandarin orange sections on top. The pancakes are cooked perfectly, with a texture few restaurants get right.
Pancakes usually come three to an order, but you can ask for one or two. Two pancakes were more than enough for me, and I’m so glad our hosts told me the secret so I didn’t waste too much food.
Others at our table also tried the lemon poppyseed pancakes with blueberry topping and the seasonal pancakes, which were pumpkin when we visited. Everything we tried was fantastic, and I was told the waffles are just as good. Even better, the prices are really reasonable.
Main Street Diner in Waynesville
The Main Street Diner has been around since 1923 and is exactly what you expect based on its name. It’s local, small, and homey, and walking in feels like stepping back in time.
You’ll find all your diner favorites and then some, from biscuits and gravy to western omelets. I almost ordered the shakshuka, one of my favorite breakfasts, but went with the Irishman breakfast instead.
The menu says it comes with corned beef hash, but you actually get big chunks of perfectly cooked corned beef with their seasoned potatoes, two eggs any style (other than poached, my usual pick), and toast. I loved choosing exactly how much corned beef (all of it) and potato (just a bit) went with each bite of egg.
It’s a perfect stick-to-your-ribs breakfast, and our server was just delightful. It’s located right in downtown Waynesville, so it’s a great choice if you plan to spend the day there.
Crown and Thistle Tea Room in Waynesville
Crown and Thistle Tea Room is open 11am to 4pm and closed Monday and Tuesday. They carry more than 45 custom-blended teas, and they make everything on the menu in-house.
Order the afternoon tea. The three-tier service includes sandwiches, scones, sweets, and more, plus monthly specials alongside the standards you expect. It’s super filling, so come hungry. You can also buy your favorite teas to take home.
This isn’t a spot for younger kids, as guests must be 13 or older. Once a month, they host a children’s tea with its own menu and crafts, which is a great compromise.
They can handle some gluten-free and allergy needs, but not a ton, so let them know ahead of time. If they can’t accommodate you, they’ll let you know.
Southern Porch in Canton
Southern Porch is a great family-owned spot for lunch or dinner. It’s on the first floor of a renovated old hotel with plenty of history, but the food is always the draw.
They serve all your Southern favorites, from pimento cheese to deviled eggs, but you have to try the collard-and-bacon dip. I don’t even like collards, or so I thought. It’s a Southern take on spinach dip you won’t want to miss.
I also really enjoyed my Brunch BLT, with a fried egg, a fried green tomato, and candied bacon. Everyone in our group loved their meals, and the meatloaf was the crowd favorite.
The Scotsman Public House in Waynesville
Dinner at The Scotsman Public House may have been my favorite meal of the trip, though it’s hard to choose just one. The owners have clearly put so much work into it, and you really feel like you’ve stepped into a Scottish pub.
The food is amazing, with so many options they make in-house from scratch, and so are the drinks. They even carry multiple mead options, something I love and rarely see.
I tried the Scotch egg, the shepherd’s pie, and their special wagyu burger, which was life-changing good. On my second visit, I ordered bangers and mash and loved every bite.
Order the cheesecake even if you’re stuffed. I’m usually not a cheesecake person because it’s too rich, too dense, and has way too much cream cheese, but theirs is magical.
This one is a crème brûlée cheesecake with whiskey toffee sauce, and it’s light and fluffy without being aggressively cheesecake. I’m determined to recreate something like it at home.
The Red Fox in Waynesville
Call ahead for a reservation at The Red Fox, since it was packed and had a wait when we went. It was voted Best New Restaurant 2025, and the menu is scratch-made comfort food with some fun twists.
Find room for the BBQ pulled pork egg rolls, which are large enough to share. They’re stuffed with local pulled pork, collard greens, and pimento cheese and served with a tangy Carolina Gold BBQ sauce. Again, I thought I didn’t like collards, but I ate more than my share.
I ordered the Street Corn Chicken, with crispy honey-chipotle glazed chicken, creamy chili-lime corn, cotija, cilantro-lime rice, black beans, and pickled jalapeños. The portion was generous and filling without being heavy.
You’ll also find staples like shrimp and grits (made with Gouda grits), meatloaf, and a buttermilk fried chicken sandwich. I’m pretty sure anything you order will be tasty, as our entire group was happy with everything they ordered.
Where to Grab a Drink
Frog Level Brewing in Waynesville
A friend of mine named Frog Level Brewing as her favorite stop when she vacations here, without knowing I’d been, too. It’s super pet-friendly. We watched leashed dogs hanging out at the tables, and there’s even a dog bowl with peas, carrots, and diced chicken so your pup can eat, too.
The food was spectacular, and the portions were generous, just what you want when you head out to hang with friends or family for a drink. Order the pretzel, which is huge, buttery, and delicious.
Our group agrees that the nachos were another win, and my personal favorite was the giant stuffed tater tots. Plan to share, because the portions were bigger than we could handle.
I shouldn’t forget the drink side, either. They’re a microbrewery with 21 taps that cover a huge spectrum of styles. Personally, I loved their blueberry sour.
The Mailroom Wine Bar in Canton
The Mailroom is on the second floor of a former post office, and it’s such a chill hangout. They skip the wines you’d find at the grocery store down the street and hunt down unique, delicious bottles that aren’t ridiculously expensive.
You’ll also find natural wines, local brews, and mocktails. They change up the wines seasonally, and a wine tasting is a great way to find new favorites. That’s how I discovered my love of Vinho Verde.
It’s designed to be a community space where you can sit in the eclectic main hall, on the patio overlooking Main Street, or in the alley under string lights. They host live music and trivia, and a community puzzle sits on a table near the back for you to help put together.
They have board games, too. I grabbed a Mad Libs, and my group filled out a couple of silly stories and read them aloud.
Why I’m Already Planning to Go Back
Everyone we met here was delightful. That’s the best word I can find for these business owners who so clearly love what they do. I rarely see that, and almost never this consistently across an entire area. It’s a big reason I want to come back.
Now when friends tell me this is their favorite mountain getaway, I get it. If you want to see the other end of the state, my Coastal Carolina oyster farm tour is a completely different kind of North Carolina trip.
Frequently Asked Questions
How far is this area from Asheville?
Waynesville, Maggie Valley, Clyde, Lake Junaluska, and Canton are about 45 minutes west of Asheville, and it’s an easy drive. Asheville Regional Airport (AVL) is about 30 minutes from Waynesville, and Charlotte is about two and a half hours away.
When is the best time to see elk in Cataloochee Valley?
Go early in the morning or near sunset, when the elk come out of the shade to graze. Stay at least 50 yards away, and plan for the trip in and out to take a good part of your day.
Is this area dog friendly?
Many spots are, and Frog Level Brewing even has a menu item for dogs. Dogs aren’t allowed on the trails in Cataloochee Valley, though, so plan around that.
Is this area good for kids?
Yes, for most stops. The alpaca walk, Wheels Through Time, Lake Junaluska, and Ten Acre Garden are great for kids, and kids can take the candle class with an adult. Crown and Thistle is for ages 13 and up, apart from its monthly children’s tea.
What should I do if it rains?
Head to Wheels Through Time or the Shelton House, book a candle-making class or a mocktail class, or settle in for afternoon tea. All of them work well on a rainy day.
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