When I travel, I care just as much about where I eat as what I do, which should come as no surprise to you. Figuring out where to eat in San Juan has been something I’ve enjoyed working on for years.
I first visited in 2013 and spent over a week in Isla Verde with lots of trips to Old San Juan, and we found some great local places we enjoyed. Since then, I’ve visited Old San Juan numerous times on cruise stops where we’ve explored, and most recently, Discover Puerto Rico hosted me on a press trip that introduced me to more delicious options.
The food scene here is electric, blending Spanish, African, and Taino influences into something uniquely Caribbean. While you can find plenty of tourist traps, especially in Old San Juan, you’re sure to find your new favorite.
Keep in mind that this is just what you can find in San Juan. This island is much more than just its capital city, so definitely plan to venture beyond there and enjoy exploring Puerto Rico from the bioluminescent bay to the rainforest and everything in between.
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Metropol Restaurant
I remember googling where to eat and finding Metropol, which we walked to. My dad still complains about the “two hour” walk – it isn’t that far, but you probably do want to get an Uber there – but he loved the food, and so did we.
In fact, when I was there most recently, I mentioned Metropol, and the locals I was with immediately identified the restaurant before I named it and raved about how much they love it. Side note: they do have an airport location, but skip that and go to the original restaurant.
It’s famous for its Cuban-Puerto Rican fusion cuisine. They have a huge menu, but go for the classics.
Their Ropa Vieja (shredded beef) is legendary, and you have to try the Mofongo stuffed with chicken or shrimp, as I order Mofongo as many places and ways as I possibly can. The portions are generous, the service is fast, and the prices are reasonable.
Deaverdura
Daverdura is tiny, but if you’re looking for authentic Puerto Rican food, this is the place. There is often a line, so don’t wait until you’re starving to go to this spot in Old San Juan.
The menu is handwritten on a chalkboard on the wall, listing so many of my favorites. That makes it hard to choose, so go with what we did and get the platter, which is enough to share with at least four people.
I was going to say that the two kinds of pasteles were my favorites, but then I remembered what else we ate and remembered that I couldn’t decide. I did love that there were two kinds of masa, and the yucca that I’d never had before was slightly better, I thought.
But the pernil? Outstanding, and I kept having “just one more bite” long after I was full. Same with the plantains. And the croquetas de jamon. Whatever you do, make sure you go hungry.
Barranchina
You cannot talk about food and drink in San Juan without mentioning Barranchina. Located right in the heart of Old San Juan, this is a place we visit every time we go to Puerto Rico, even though this is admittedly fairly touristy.
It’s partly famous for the plaque on the wall that claims this is the birthplace of the piña colada in 1963, although the Caribe Hilton also claims this title. Regardless of who did it first, Barranchina makes a fantastic one.
Expect a wait because everyone wants to try it. The good news is they have a separate line if you just want to grab a drink to go, because yes, you can, in fact, legally walk around with your pina colada on the street. If you’re my mom, you might not realize that the line is for the drinks and skip the line entirely, but thankfully, people are very understanding when you’re over 80.
However, if you have time, sit down for a meal. The courtyard is beautiful with lush tropical plants and sometimes live music. Know that you will have a wait, and it can be a long one, though we’ve gotten lucky before and been seated within 15 to 20 minutes.
The food is solid traditional Puerto Rican fare, but the atmosphere is the big draw here. I’ve had the churrasco, chicken mofongo, and paella here and been happy, along with the stuffed fried plantains.
Kumo
On this last press trip, we stayed at Aire de Olivo, a gorgeous boutique hotel with two onsite restaurants. You do not need to stay there to eat at the restaurants, and I definitely recommend visiting Kumo.
It’s located on the rooftop and has the most gorgeous views of the beach and ocean, as it’s just across the street from where you may be spending your day enjoying the water. The open-air restaurant has super comfy seating that’s perfect for couples and groups.
The fusion Japanese-Peruvian kitchen has an open layout, so you can watch the chefs as they cook. The ceviche is incredibly fresh, bright with lime and peppers, and perfect for a hot day.
They also have a fabulous mixologist on staff who creates concoctions you’ll love. This isn’t just your standard mojito, as I had a hibiscus pisco sour that was perfectly balanced and frothy.
Kumo is a great spot for a sunset dinner or a special night out. They have a DJ spinning to add to the ambiance, but I loved that it wasn’t overly loud so you could still have conversations easily.
La Picara
If you want to escape the tourist trail, head to La Picara in Santurce. While this isn’t your typical Puerto Rican menu, the food is absolutely fantastic with a mix of different cuisines that changes regularly.
This is a more upscale restaurant, and it was filled with locals. We visited on a Thursday night, and it was pretty busy, so make reservations.
I absolutely loved the bao buns, which were perfectly made and prepared. I loved my braised rib pappardelle, though it was so rich that I couldn’t finish it. The others with me raved about their meals, too.
Like Kumo, they do a great job with their cocktail offerings. I had a unique vodka-based drink that was as beautiful as it was tasty, and they offer it in a gin version if you prefer that.
Bebo’s Café
Bebo’s Café is known locally for its massive portions and reasonable prices. There is almost always a line and they don’t take reservations, but don’t let that scare you off. It moves much faster than the tourist spots in Old San Juan.
The menu is huge, covering everything from sandwiches to steaks. Their mofongo is excellent, and you can probably tell that I order it as often as possible when in Puerto Rico.
Try to go with a group so you can taste and share the different items, because it’s so hard to choose just one dish. It’s loud and chaotic in the restaurant, but with food like this, I can deal with it.
Grab a Piragua
I can’t give you a specific location for these, but if you’re wandering San Juan on a hot day – usually when I’m there – this is the treat you need to cool down. You’ll see little carts dotting the streets with piragueros selling the traditional shaved ice.
The carts are small, and this is an inexpensive treat that helps keep you cool. The piraguero shaves the ice, often by hand, into a cone shape, then tops it with your choice of flavored syrup before handing you the piragua to enjoy.
I love the guava flavor, but you’ll find everything from your familiar strawberry to passion fruit and more. The hand-shaved ice from a giant block is fluffy and easy to eat like an ice cream cone, as you won’t get a spoon.
We usually get a few with different flavors to share amongst my family. When my kids were little, even the small size was too much for them, so it works perfectly.
Delicadas
Sometimes you just need a good coffee and a sweet treat to keep you going as you’re exploring Old San Juan. Delicadas is perfect for a mid-afternoon break.
My only caveat is for anyone like me who’s sensitive to caffeine: they do not serve decaf coffee. However, they make up for it with excellent matcha lattes and fresh juices.
I grabbed an iced matcha latte with oat milk because yes, they do offer milk options. They have great pastries and other to-go options that are all made from scratch to give you the energy to get back out and explore more of Old San Juan.
Drunken Cookies
If you’re on the other side of needing a refresh, this is one of the more unique places I’ve ever seen. I actually discovered it after seeing multiple people walking down the street with what looked like the hugest and most delicious cookies I’d seen in a while.
So yeah, Drunken Cookies isn’t your average bakery. As the name suggests, they specialize in massive, gooey cookies that they sell with a mini shot of liquor that you can add to your cookie – or not.
They have six locations across Puerto Rico, but I visited the original in Old San Juan. They have a new flavor every Friday, but they have delicious options in both classic and unique flavors from s’mores to tres leches to chocolate chip Nutella (hint hint, my choice) to guava cheesecake and more.
These six-ounce cookies are rich, heavy, and absolutely delicious. One cookie is easily enough to share, but I would never judge if you eat the whole thing yourself.