As soon as I learned you could cruise in the Amazon, it instantly became a bucket list item for me, and I know I’m not alone. The small group, small ship exploring the jungle and seeing some of my favorite animals in the world in the wild is a dream come true, and my experience with Delfin Amazon Cruises ensured it was smooth and better than I expected.
The idea of navigating the world’s largest rainforest, seeing pink river dolphins, and maybe even swimming in those legendary waters felt like the ultimate adventure. But I’ll admit that I wasn’t quite sure what to expect compared to the ocean cruises and European river cruises I’ve done in the past.
My recent trip aboard the Delfin III had some surprises to it, as it is similar in many ways to a European river cruise, but it was also very reminiscent of an African safari in how each day was set up and was definitely unique amongst my cruise experiences.
I cruised the Delfin III with Delfin Amazon Cruises as part of a press trip. All opinions remain my own.
Some links in this article are affiliate links that may earn me a commission if you purchase through them.
How to Get to the Port
My adventure started with a flight from Lima to Iquitos, the only way to reach this city. Pretty much everyone is on the same flight to Iquitos, and the only flight that worked for me meant that I arrived a day early.
I stayed at the Wyndham Costa del Sol Grand, a new five-star hotel just a two-minute walk from the terminal. It was the perfect spot to relax and get ready for the trip, and this was way less stressful than finding a hotel in the city given the traffic in Lima.
Many people do this cruise as part of a larger South American itinerary where they visit Machu Picchu, Cuzco, or other destinations. This often brings them to Lima as part of their travels, making the flight to Iquitos slightly less hectic than it was for me.
As a side note, I was initially surprised that the cruise was just a three-night or a four-night option when I’m used to seven-day or longer cruises. With so many visitors making this a portion of their South American adventures, it makes a lot more sense, and some guests choose to do back-to-back cruises to create a seven-night or longer experience.
Once we all arrived in Iquitos, the Delfin team took care of everything. They tagged our luggage with our cabin numbers and loaded it onto a coach bus, leaving us with just our backpacks. As I stepped onto the bus, they handed me a scented cold towel, which was the first hint of the pampering to come.
We also received reusable water bottles filled with safe and cold water to use throughout the trip, plus a delicious lunch wrapped in a cloth napkin that was also ours to keep. For a taste of local flavor, they offered Inca Kola, a yellow soda that tastes like lemon verbena and bubblegum, as well as more familiar soda options.
The water bottles are insulated water bottles that do a great job of keeping water cold – and we had water dispensers on all three levels of the ship to refill the bottle at any time. The only downside is that the bottles are identical and the lids are not attached, so be careful not to lose the lid and label your bottle with nail polish if you have any with you like I did.
The drive to the embarkation point in Nauta took about two hours. Our main naturalist spent the first 30 minutes giving us a fascinating overview of the region’s culture and economy. I recommend sitting on the left side of the bus for the best views to see what the narration covers.
While the roads are in good condition, they do wind a bit once you hit the jungle. If you’re prone to motion sickness, take something beforehand.
Life Aboard the Delfin III
Boarding the Delfin III felt less like getting on a ship and more like arriving at a boutique hotel. As we got off the bus, we entered a gorgeous open-air check-in facility with comfortable chairs where we filled out some forms before boarding skiffs to get to the ship.
Once aboard, we went straight to the third-deck lounge for a briefing and a welcome mocktail. With only 28 passengers on our cruise and a crew of 35 (though there are 22 cabins that can accommodate 44 guests in total), the service was incredibly attentive and personal.
My cabin was spacious, comfortable, and featured floor-to-ceiling windows that allowed me to see the passing scenery and wildlife day and night. While my room had a large safe that fit my laptop, iPad, wallet, passport, and anything else I could have used, there is no fridge in the cabins like you see on an oceanliner.
Besides that, there are a few unique things about cruising with Delfin. You don’t get a key to your room, which surprised me when I first went to my room expecting a key card inside on the desk. there’s a manual lock for when you’re inside, but otherwise, it stays unlocked.
Additionally, plumbing in the Amazon is delicate, so toilet paper goes in a basket next to the toilet, not in the bowl. It takes a second to get used to, but it’s standard practice in many places within and outside Peru.
While most of what I had read prior to boarding reiterate that there was no wifi and no cell signal for the duration of the cruise, that is not fully true. There is no wifi in the cabins, but you can access wifi in the lounge on the third deck anytime you need it, and interestingly, I had a cell signal for the majority of the cruise, though I tended to keep it in airplane mode to not wear down the battery searchign for a signal.
I made sure to download books, shows, and podcasts before leaving home to listen to at night as I fell asleep. Each night, I had a little booklet about animals and legends in the Amazon, along with a turned-down bed and a little treat to enjoy before I ended my day. They say our cabins were serviced twice a day, but it felt more like four times a day sometimes.
There are two layers of curtains in the room, but neither is a blackout shade. If you’re at all sensitive to light while sleeping, bring a sleep mask, like my Manta Sleep Mask that’s super comfortable as it doesn’t push on your eyes and has a built in Bluetooth to listen to music, white noise, or podcasts at night. My cabin had a green light on the fire alarm that flashed every few minutes which would have woken me up without my sleep mask, as well.
The attention continued from the moment we arrived in Iquitos until we were on the plane to leave. For example, before the bus leaves to head back to Iquitos, the stewards go through all the cabins to ensure no one forgot anything and deliver any found items to guests.
I was almost that person, as I had gotten so comfortable wearing the flip flops in the room that I forgot to change into my sneakers before boarding the skiff that last time. Thankfully, I did remember and was able to head back to my room to swap them out, but it felt good to know that they would have caught my error even if I hadn’t.
Fabulous Local Food I Still Miss
I was truly impressed by the quality of the food, especially given the tiny size of the ship and its kitchen. Breakfast was a buffet with everything from cereal and yogurt to made-to-order eggs and French toast. The wait staff brought around some of the extras to each table, including lattes and cappucchinos in addition to standard coffee.
Unlike most (but not all!) cruises I’ve experienced, lunch and dinner were set menus with no choice of dishes, beautifully presented with a mix of Peruvian and international flavors. There was more than enough food at every meal, and many were dishes I had never had before but absolutely loved.
Because the menu is set, communicating dietary restrictions early is crucial. This isn’t just about your anaphylactic allergies but all your food preferences, too. I let them know I don’t eat mushrooms and dislike shrimp, and they always had a delicious alternative ready for me without me even asking.
In keeping with the theme, the dining room tables were decorated differently for every meal with local crafts purchased from villagers as part of Delfin’s partnership with the communities along the Amazon. It was a beautiful dining room with windows along the entire back where we often saw dolphins playing in the water as we ate.
You’ll see the menus on the chalkboard at the entrance to the dining room before each meal, but you’ll often have surprises like the seven-course tasting menu on the last night. My favorite surprise was the piranha cooked and served the day we went fishing for them, and yes, we enjoyed them.
Each meal is open seating. As you’ll find every time this happens, some people ate at the same tables with the same people for each meals, while others moved around throughout the stay. There are tables for groups of four to eight, so you’ll generally enjoy your meals with other travelers.
Drinks Are Included, Too
Or at least, many drinks are included. The third floor has a lounge with couches set up for relaxing as well as tables set up for games, including gorgeous chess and backgammon sets, and the bar is the highlight there.
In the morning, you can get coffee and little cookies there before breakfast, both regular brewed coffee and lattes and more, just like at breakfast. In the afternoons, they set it up with snacks to accompany your drinks like plaintain and potato chips.
Most people focused on the pisco sour included in the complimentary bar offerings, as they do a fantastic job with their pisco sour. However, it wasn’t until almost the last night that most people realized that there are two other cocktails included, the chilcano and the algarrobina.
On your first night, try each of them as a group, as they are all very different. In the end, I liked the pisco sour best, but the chilcano was a close second. This drink is another classic Peruvian cocktail made with pisco, lime juice, and ginger ale, which makes it lighter than a pisco sour that includes egg whites, sugar, and bitters, but no ginger ale.
The algarrobina is more of a dessert drink and reminds me of a mudslide. It’s a great option to enjyo after dinner as you relax in the lounge before heading to bed for another full day of adventure, and once discovered, more than one passenger decided this was their favorite of the three included cocktails.
Outside these cocktails, there are six Peruvian beers that are included in your fare, as well as house red and white wines at lunch and dinner. On the non-alcoholic side, you can choose from a range of options, including: seasonal fruit juices, regular and sparkling water, ginger ale, Coke, Coke Zero, and Inca Kola, and of course coffee and tea.
Don’t Skip the Excursions
While we often saw the pink dolphins from the ship itself, we also went looking for them on various excursions, including the option to swim in the Amazon where the pink dolphins often cavort near the groups – though none did near where my group swam.
The excursions were the absolute highlight. They’re set up much like an African safari where you head out in the morning on an adventure for a couple hours, then come back for either breakfast or lunch, then go out again later in the day to see and do something different.
Our cruise explored the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve, venturing out on skiffs that hold 14 people. Our days started early, with a 6am departure the first day to catch the animals when they are most active and breakfast at 7am the other days.
There is no shade on the skiffs, but that is intentional. If there were shade, you would not be able to see many of the animals higher up in the trees or on the other side of the skiff. Make sure to bring sunscreen and use it. They had hand fans for us one day, but I brought a rechargeable handheld fan that worked better.
Pro tip: Whenever you leave the skiff and will come back to it, place your backpack or a jacket on your seat. It gets very hot in the sun and is uncomfortable to sit down when you return if you do not. And yes, I figured this out after our first restroom stop.
My other big tip is for the day we visited the ranger station and had lunch cooked for us there by the ship’s culinary team. Pack and carry hand sanitizer, as the ship has hand sanitizer that they offer before you walk into each meal in the dining room, there was none at the nature reserve lunch, and we found no soap in the bathrooms there either.
You Will See Sloths, Monkeys, and Pink Dolphins
Seeing the wildlife up close is pretty indescribable. We saw brown-throated three-toed sloths, at least four kinds of monkeys, and countless birds. Each excursion – and the information they share during presentations aboard the ship – is led by a naturalist who grew up in the area.
The naturalists are experts at spotting the wildlife and carry green laser lights to help you see them, too, because there were many I struggled to spot until the green light patiently showed me again how to follow from the base of a tree to where the wildlife was hanging out.
The monkeys were my by far my favorite, especially the night our naturalist found a huge tree where at least 200 squirrel and capuchin monkeys were eating and playing. I could have stayed there watching them forever. It was pure magic.
And yes, we saw the pink river dolphins everywhere. We spotted them playing in the water right behind our ship during breakfast multiple mornings, as well as following our skiffs sometimes or just hanging out having fun and being dolphins.
I tried my best to get photos, but you never knew where they were going to pop up, and I quickly gave up in place of simply watching them and enjoying the moment. I highly recommend being present rather than trying to capture that perfect image throughout your cruise.
I never imagined that I would have a chance to swim in the Amazon River, but I’m so glad I read the packing instructions and brought my suit. The water was refreshing, and they provided noodles for us to float on. While the dolphins kept their distance that day, just being in the same water with them was a blast, and I almost refused to exit the water when it was time to return to the ship.
One of my most memorable experiences was a night excursion. The guides used powerful torches to spot caiman along the riverbanks and called out to them to help locate them because the caiman answered. Sitting in the skiff in the near-dark, listening to the jungle sounds and watching fishing bats swoop down to catch insects, was an experience I’ll never forget.
Guests always have the option to participate in the excursions or stay aboard the ship in their cabins, in the air-conditioned lounge, or yes, even at the pool on the third deck with a fantastic view. There was no pressure to participate, and we had passengers do some excursions and not others throughout my time there.
Some Excursions Are Somewhat More Strenuous
The first full day on the river, we had the option to kayak up a tributary, and I was surprised by how many didn’t participate. The kayaking was in two-person kayaks and easy with a smooth surface, no wind, and little to no current.
What I didn’t think through is that this kayaking is about the journey and not the destination. If you go, take your time and look around constantly to spot wildlife rather than trying to be at the head of the pack of kayaks like most of us (me included) did. That’s something I wish I could go back and do differently.
The other excursion we had a number of people not participate in was the jungle hike. This came in the afternoon and was part of a full day prior to that point. The hike focused more on the plant life and small animals the naturalists found and showed us (from a safe distance), such as tarantulas and frogs and and lizards rather than sloths and monkeys.
It’s fascinating and mostly shaded but still very hot. This is where you want electrolytes and long sleeves for the bugs more than some of the other excursion where you can get away with short sleeves because the skiff moves enough to keep them from being quite so prevalent, provided you utilize your bug repellent.
There are a lot of steps and exposed roots and up and down, so be prepared for that. This was the most strenuous of the excursions we did, but I’m glad I participated, as it was yet another side to the Amazon I wouldn’t have wanted to miss.
Delfin provides rain boots for you to wear before you get on the skiff to the trail so that you never have to worry about ruining your own shoes. In fact, they will take your shoes at any time that they might have gotten dirty and wash them off for you, which we needed earlier that day after exploring the village.
Fishing for Piranhas
On one of our longer excursion days, we explored in a skiff befor stopping at a ranger station where we would later have lunch. Those who wished had the chance to go fishing for piranhas. The guides baited simple wooden poles with raw beef and taught us the technique.
It’s harder than it looks, and I only managed to catch a tiny one that fell off the hook as I was pulling it in, but others in the boat caught several sardines and piranhas. Like all fishing, you want to stay out of the sunlight in the shaded pools the fish prefer, so be warned: the mosquitoes in the shade are intense. Apply your bug spray liberally.
Connect with the Local Culture
Delfin also focuses on connecting guests with local communities. We visited a village of about 90 people, walking through and seeing their school, medical clinic, and homes, and each trip visits different villages that welcome us to ensure that all who wish to benefit from the tourism are able to do so.
The naturalists spend this time talking about how the villages operate, including showcasing the local flora that they use in everything from medicine to food to crafts and more. It’s a different insight into villages that welcome us, though we are also respectful of them when we visit, which means we don’t enter the schools or their homes.
Bring your money, particularly the Peruvian soles, as they prefer that to American dollars when you visit the villages (including on the jungle hike). We had the chance to buy handicrafts directly from the locals who made the crafts that ranged from woven and dyed fibers to beautifully carved wooden platters.
Enjoy the Spa If You Can
As small as the ship is, it still contains a spa with a treatment room on the third floor. With so much time looking up at the animals in the trees, your neck and shoulders may get sore or cramped. Either bring a hand massager or consider using the spa on the ship.
They have two offerings, and I regret not partaking while I was there, as the guests I spoke to who did visit the spa raved about the treatments. You have options for a 30-minute reflexology, or a 30-, 50-, or 80-minute combination of Swedish massage, stretching therapeutic massage, and reflexology to get the kinks out.
You sign up each day on the chalkboard located near the stairway on the second level. The staff updates it each day with the available times, and you simply write your cabin number next to the time you want to book.
Interestingly, the prices are very reasonable and either comparable to or lower than what I can find at home, something I don’t usually see on cruise ships or at destinations. When you go to your treatment, wear your bathrobe from the room.
Even After the Cruise, Your Vacation Continues
The last day, we stopped at two locations that partner with local Peruvians to improve their lives and the environment. They’re fun as well as educational, so it feels like the vacation continues.
We first stopped at an apiary where we learned how the Amazonian bees collect their honey in the hives not in a comb but rather in a small black ball that you squeeze to release the honey. These are non-stinging bees, and we had the opportunity to feed them pollen from our fingers if we chose. Of course I opted in.
During the visit, we also tasted the various honeys (yes, for sale) that the cooperative had purchased from local communities where they taught beekeeping and provided the hives. They had a truly unique flavor that wasn’t overly sweet and is thinner and runny, unlike honey we’re used to.
After that, we stopped at an aquarium that is a nonprofit research center on ornamental fish in the Amazon. It’s goal is to promote an eco friendly philosophy among local fishermen and educate local children, so we saw many Peruvians visiting and participating in programs.
We visited the small, one-story building with a local guide who shares information about each of the fish in the tanks. The tanks are small, and it feels for me too small for many of the fish, but I also recognize where we are in the world and the purpose behind having this aquarium.
It was interesting to see so many of the fish that were in the river but that we could not see from the surface. The catfish tank provides little pellets you can use to feed the catfish, and many of the guests did so.
There is also a small room hidden behind two sets of black curtains for nocturnal fish that’s easy to miss. I’m glad I visited, as there were more types of fish there that I had never seen before.
At the airport, Delfin has your boarding passes and luggage tags already printed out for you, which is a huge help and means you don’t even need to check in for your flight. Just listen for the naturalists to call your name and head to the right line – baggage drop, premium if you have that cabin booked, or special assistance if you require help.
We also received a boxed lunch in the same style napkin we had on the bus when we first arrived, and we keep that napkin, as well. Pick up your lunch and your choice of beverage after you drop your luggage because you can take liquids through security because it’s a domestic flight to Lima, something I didn’t realize at first.
Many of us sat in the terminal, but had we known, we would have chosen to eat lunch after security, as it is cooler there than before security and has more comfortable seating. There’s a small store that also sells food and everything from ice cream to cereal in addition to the usual souvenirs right after security.
If you have access to Priority Pass, the airport has a lounge in the network where you have better air conditioning and wifi, as there’s no wifi elsewhere in the airport. It’s one of the smaller lounges I’ve visited, but it has comfortable seating plus some snacks and beverages.
Don’t Forget to Tip
For tips, there will be an envelope on your bed on the last night of the cruise. You can put cash in there and place it in a wooden box at the bar the next morning or pay your tip via card that morning in the same place with the cruise director.
Delfin recommends tipping $150 per person for three night cruises and $180 per person for the four night cruises. It is a higher daily rate compared to many other cruises you may have taken, but once you realize that it includes all the excursions your naturalists guide, the cabin stewards who clean multiple times a day, the fantastic kitchen and wait staff, and the bartender, let’s just say that I chose to tip over the recommended amount.
I am pretty sure I’m not the only one. The service is impeccable and rivals that of my experience with Riverside Cruises where I had a butler.
What to Pack
I have an entire Amazon cruise packing list with everything I brought, as well as some notes on what not to bring. This type of cruise is very different from other cruises, including a very casual dinner where most people didn’t change and even I only wore a sundress one night.
Something I didn’t know before I did research into what I planned to bring: leave the bright colors and black clothing at home. The bright colors attract bugs, and, less of a surprise, dark colors make you even hotter.
The biggest surprise to me is that mosquitoes can – and will – bite through clothing. Look for impermeable fabric or looser clothing that makes it more difficult. And bring a good hat, plenty of sunscreen, and bug spray for your entire body.
Anytime I travel to a new destination, I always review the airline restrictions, as they are often different from what I’m used to in the States. LATAM, the airline you pretty much have to fly to get from Lima to Iquitos and back, states that you cannot have aerosol in either checked or carry-on bags, which is how I’m used to buying those strong DEET bug sprays.
Needless to say, I am a rule follower, so I immediately jumped on Consumer Reports to look at what my highly rated options are that don’t utilize aerosol, though everyone else on the cruise was surprised to learn that aerosol wasn’t allowed and brought spray cans, so take that with a bit of a grain of salt.
I found it fascinating that the third-highest rated repellent is a natural one that doesn’t use DEET and happens to be the one I have at home. I took a chance and brought my Repel in the pump bottle, and it worked to the point where I received not a single bite while in Peru.
Do You Need Any Travel Medications?
This one becomes your personal preference. If you look at the State Department website, you’ll see recommendations for the Yellow Fever vaccine and anti-malarial prophylaxis medications.
However, the Delfin materials you receive after booking state that you do not need either of them. I confirmed with Ines Orihuela, the sales and marketing director for Delfin, that they do not have issues with either Yellow Fever or malaria in the regions where the cruise visits, and that these are not necessary.
Because the Yellow Fever vaccine now offered is valid for life, I chose to visit a travel clinic and be innoculated prior to my visit. I also had the option to get anti-malarial medication that has fewer side effects than the medications used to, but I chose not to do so.
Aside from that, pack your usual travel medications from Pepto to aspirin just in case. The cruise ship has a paramedic aboard, and she has everything from antivenom to electrolytes and everything in between, but when you aren’t feeling well, you want to have access to your meds right away.
One of the passengers when we boarded was feeling ill, and she provided him with a variety of medications that worked wonders so that he was able to join us by the end of the second day. Unlike most cruise lines, any interactions you have with the paramedic, including medications you may need, are complimentary, so you don’t have to worry about unexpected fees if you aren’t feeling well.
When I talked to Delfin, they explained that many cruise passengers in the Amazon do other South American travel before or after the cruise, so they are often on medications for everything from adjusting to high altitude if they’re going into the Andes to antimalarial medications and more. Many of those have significant side effects that subside as soon as they stop taking them, and that was likely the issue this gentleman faced.
I was most impressed that the paramedic accompanied us on our excursions, as well. She was there as a just-in-case backup, though the only need was on our jungle trek where the heat made the hiking a challenge for some guests and she provided electrolytes before they could even ask.
She identified which passengers were most likely to need any assistance and tended to stay with those groups, though all the naturalists are in contact with her and the ship via powerful walkie-talkies at all times if anything ever comes up. I loved these little details that so often we didn’t even notice to care for us on our trip.
Book Your Bucket List Amazon River Cruise
Cruising the Amazon with Delfin was everything I hoped for and more. It was the perfect blend of bucket-list adventure and unexpected luxury.
We saw some eco lodges near the reserve, but that’s a little too rustic for me, and I loved this floating safari where I had so many experiences I never could have anywhere else, all while being taken care of and pampered by a staff that truly cares.
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