Traveling to Patagonia is a dream for many, but finding the right place to stay can completely transform your experience. I recently spent an incredible vacation at Hotel Las Torres, and it is a destination and resort you absolutely need to add to your bucket list.
My stay at Hotel Las Torres was part of a hosted press trip, but all opinions are my own. I carefully research what and where I’m going beforehand to ensure as much as possible that I have a good experience.
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Why You Need To Visit Torres Del Paine
Torres del Paine National Park is located near the rugged southern tip of Chile, and this UNESCO-recognized biosphere reserve is widely considered one of the most spectacular natural reserves on the planet. The draw of this area comes from its dramatic landscapes, featuring soaring granite spires, massive ancient glaciers, stunning turquoise lakes, and vast golden pampas.
You have to unplug from your daily routine on a vacation here because there is virtually no cell coverage once you leave the main towns. In a world where we’re constantly tethered to our screens, this forced digital detox allows you to immerse yourself in wild, untouched nature and experience a true adventure at the edge of the world.
This isn’t a lounge around the pool kind of vacation. Instead, you spend your time hiking or horseback riding to explore the vast area and experience something you can’t find anywhere else.
Discovering The Perfect Patagonian Basecamp
I first heard about this hotel when I saw a social media post talking about their annual search for volunteers. They look for 10 volunteers to spend 10 days restoring the Base Torres trail to make it safe to hike for years to come. While I didn’t participate in that initiative, I did visit the hotel while the volunteers were there and saw them hard at work.
Hotel Las Torres is absolutely gorgeous, and it’s the only hotel within the Torres del Paine reserve, making it the perfect base for daily excursions. Your adventures leave right from your door, so you don’t have to drive or take a bus just to start your day.
The focus is on sustainability and authenticity, and that ethos runs throughout, from the garden that helps feed the resort to the water bottles you can refill from stations in the hallway to the traditional Patagonian uniforms every employee wears. Traditional baqueanos care for the hundreds of horses, and they’re eager to share their knowledge with you as you visit the stables.
You can tell that the hotel’s service is viewed as important from the top down, starting with the califate mocktail you receive as you check in. The employees were beyond helpful, friendly, and they all seemed genuinely happy to work there, though service at Pionero Bar was sometimes extremely slow.
They had little thoughtful touches I really appreciated, too. For example, the reception desk has a selection of games available for you to enjoy if you need a day off or the weather doesn’t cooperate.
How To Get To Hotel Las Torres
To reach this remote destination, most travelers fly into Punta Arenas, Puerto Natales, or El Calafate. We flew into Punta Arenas because it has more flights from the States and Santiago.
Punta Arenas is also the jumping-off point for a lot of cruises in the region, so consider adding one to your travel plans when you’re already down there. The drive from Punta Arenas to the hotel is about five hours, so be prepared for that with a good book to enjoy between searching out the windows for local wildlife.
Puerto Natales is only about an hour and a half from the hotel, but the flights are more limited. El Calafate takes four or more hours, depending on traffic and border crossings, but it works really well if you plan to continue your South American journey into Argentina.
If you choose the all-inclusive package, round-trip transportation is included. If not, you can rent a car or take a bus, which many guests do.
Choosing Between The All-Inclusive And Half Board Packages
When booking your stay, you choose between their packages, and I highly recommend the all-inclusive package. With that option, you can enjoy breakfast, lunch, dinner, beverages, and as many guided excursions as you can fit into your day.
As I noted above, you also receive complimentary round-trip transportation from the airport, provided your flights align with their shuttle service. When the shuttle arrives, they give you a reusable dry bag backpack with snacks and a reusable water bottle already filled with cold water.
All guests receive that, so if you don’t have a shuttle, you’ll get the very handy bag I used daily when you check in. The hotel gives you another reusable mug designed for hot coffee and tea waiting for you in my room.
Hotel Las Torres also offers a half-board option that includes only breakfast and dinner. If you choose the half-board route, your lunch, beverages, and airport transport are not included, so you would need to rent a car or take a public bus to reach the property.
The other big difference is the excursions. Rather than having unlimited excursions – and yes, I participated in as many as humanly possible – you either hike the trails on your own without a guide or pay a la carte for the (absolutely amazing) excursions you choose to do.
Comfortable Rooms With Unbeatable Views
The rooms at Hotel Las Torres are either superior rooms or junior suites. The superior rooms have either a double bed or one, two, or three single beds, making them perfect for families or small groups.
I stayed in a junior suite, with a king-size bed, which is ideal for couples. This room has stunning views of the Paine Massif, while the superior rooms may have views of the mountain or the garden.
The rooms were very comfortable, though a bit spare. They aren’t traditional high luxury rooms, but they are well-appointed with a beautiful fabric wall, towel warmers in the bathroom, and a large safe for your valuables.
The towel warmer is the wall radiator style you often see in Europe, and it’s one of my favorite features. Did I use it to help dry out my clothing in addition to warming my towels while I showered? Absolutely.
The rooms do not have a closet since this isn’t a traditional vacation where you pack nicer clothes or worry about wrinkles, but there was plenty of room on the shelves and within the small hanging space provided.
Farm To Table Dining And Creative Cocktails
The food is a definite highlight with two main restaurants on the property. I enjoyed both of them, and there’s definitely something for everyone on the menus.
Restaurant Coiron
Breakfast is served at Restaurant Coiron and is primarily buffet-style, with plenty of choices, fresh juices, and the option to order eggs your way. I loved the fancy touchscreen coffee machine that offers a variety of coffees, including my favorite, the vanilla latte.
You don’t need reservations for breakfast, but you absolutely need them for dinner. Reservations can be hard to get for the exact time you want because it is a small restaurant, though they’re building a significant expansion right now that should help.
The dinner menu features farm-to-table ingredients with a wonderful Patagonian flair. Hands down, my favorite was the salmon tartare appetizer, which I ate on three different nights because it was just that good.
For my entree, I loved the filet, and other guests raved about the risotto and the lamb. Dessert, I didn’t eat as much of, probably because I’m so picky about where I spend my calories, but they have a lemon dessert I enjoyed, though I chose to leave off the puff pastry top after the first night.
Pionero Bar
For lunch or dinner, you can head to Pionero Bar, and you need no reservations. The garbanzo bean stew was one of my favorite things I ate while there, and others raved about the steaks.
I also tried the pizza another day, and I didn’t love that as much. I feel like they really do the more traditional Patagonian and Chilean food better than the Americanized dishes, so definitely go for those.
As with Restaurant Coiron, the bar’s cocktails are an unqualified highlight. Frederico is the main bartender, a former competition bartender with enormous creativity.
The califate pisco sours are a specialty, and you actually get a mocktail version of this drink at check-in. My personal favorite was the jardin that tasted as good as it looked.
They brew craft beer and their own gin onsite, so those are featured on much of the drink menu. You really can’t go wrong with any choice you make, so try something outside your usual comfort zone.
The food portions are very generous at both restaurants, and you definitely don’t go hungry. That garbanzo bean stew is an appetizer, but it was filling enough for an entire meal.
Excursion Boxed Lunches
If you do an excursion over lunchtime, you can get a box lunch to take with you featuring options like roast beef, seitan, a fish burger, smoked salmon, and a low-calorie salad. With as much physical activity as you do, low-calorie anything was the least of my concerns, but I appreciate the variety of selections.
I chose a different meal for each day of my excursions, but every day, I discovered I had roast beef. I was disappointed to not be able to report out on what my favorites were – I really wanted to try the chickpea burger! – but the roast beef was delicious.
The lunch also comes with a protein bar, a seed cookie, packaged trail mix, and the option to add fruit such as an apple or a kiwi. Honestly, it was too much food for me, and I never finished it all because the sandwich was so filling.
Take Advantage of the Excursions
Hotel Las Torres operates 22 different full- and half-day tours, designed to intrigue any guest. You can choose from three different van tours that require less exertion, six horseback tours, additional hiking tours, and two located onsite at the hotel.
The full-day excursions are physically demanding, so I suggest you follow a challenging day by one where you relax at the resort or tour in the van to avoid fatiguing yourself too much and risking injury. I was really impressed by all the tours and the guides – especially Pamela – so don’t think you can go wrong no matter what you choose.
Visit Nordenskjold Lake
My first horseback riding experience was absolutely lovely. This is aimed at beginning riders, and we had many on the tour who had never been on a horse before.
The tour consists almost entirely of walking, with only short optional spaces to trot or canter. You’re on horseback for a couple of hours, but it isn’t strenuous or demanding.
The group is led by a baqueano and at least one guide, with additional baqueanos throughout the group to ensure everyone’s safety and comfort. I was impressed by how well they monitored everyone and took action if there was ever a question.
I loved seeing the different landscapes we crossed as we traveled to Nordenskjold Lake. They were all beautiful in different ways, ranging from almost moonlike rocky terrain to beautiful grassy open pampas to small river crossings and more.
It was a relaxing ride, and the view of the lake from above is worth it. I loved seeing the vibrant blue hues and the surrounding mountains, making this a perfect opening half-day excursion.
Immerse Yourself in the Local Baqueano Culture
My first day, I did the baqueano experience, which is about an hour and a half to two hours long. You head to the stables to meet the horses and learn about the horses, their care, and the baqueanos themselves.
They have 140 horses total, but they split the herd into two so that half are resting while half are working. During the tour, you learn about the pack horses that go up to the refugio with supplies twice a day and get a chance to walk around the yard on a horse.
The tour also includes a visit to the on-site farrier who constantly replaces shoes and tends to the horse’s hooves. They explain the entire process and how and why they care for the horses’ feet the way they do, and you can see even on a day when it poured rain, they’re still making sure the horses come first.
Then you go into the tack room to learn about the yerba custom and try it with proper etiquette, as taught by the baqueanos. You share the same mate straw, so if you are a germaphobe, this part isn’t for you.
They also have a wood-burning stove in the tack room to keep warm, where they bake fresh sopapillas served with an amazing salsa made from tomato, onion, parsley, and oil. Come hungry because they have plenty, and a sopapilla fresh from the oven is heaven.
Afterward, we hung out in the yard to watch them play taba, which is a game I can only describe as a mash-up of shuffleboard, cornhole, and curling. They even let us try playing, but let’s just say I’m not going to quit my day job and go pro.
Mastering Mixology with the Cocktail Experience
I also signed up for the cocktail experience with Frederico. He is a true showman who talks about the bar’s philosophy, explaining that every cocktail has a story.
They showcase some truly unique cocktails, such as a smoked drink featuring Drambuie and Glenlivet. They serve these in unique glasses made from recycled bottles used on the property, and they actually cut 20 tons of glass every season to make them.
During the class, you get to be a bartender and make your own califate sour. You mix two ounces of pisco, one and a half ounces of lemon juice, one and a half ounces of califate syrup, and two dashes of egg white. Shake it, pour it, and add bitters on top.
This was so fun and a great way to relax before dinner. You even get a certificate with your name on it declaring you a bartender for a day.
Looking back, my biggest regret is not buying a bottle of califate syrup when I had a chance. I want to recreate that cocktail so badly, and I cannot find it anywhere in the States. Don’t make my mistake!
Make It to Base Las Torres
When visiting Base Las Torres, you can either hike the entire route or take horses to the refugio and then continue on foot. The trek to the refugio is a two-hour hike or just over an hour on horseback.
I chose the horseback riding option and am so glad I did, as I think hiking the entire way may have been too much for me. The horseback portion is designed for beginners, and you walk the entire way, so don’t let that frighten you off.
Before you start, they ask about your experience and ensure you aren’t afraid of horses to best match you to your mount. You go in a line with a baqueano leading and a guide at the rear with additional baqueanos with you if you have a larger group.
Once you reach the refugio, you can get a coffee or tea and use the good bathrooms before you start the hardest part. It’s a good waypoint, and you’ll see hikers doing the more challenging W and O circuits camping there overnight.
The hike from the refuge is another two hours, with the last hour being a challenging one-kilometer stretch. You absolutely need to be physically fit to do this one, though you can stop to rest as much as you need.
You have to climb over roots and big rocks that are more like small boulders, and the path is very steep at times. I almost gave up, and I am in good shape, so I am very glad we did the first half on horseback, so I was less tired.
The end view was entirely worth the effort when the three granite towers finally came into view. We had plenty of time to rest, eat our lunch, and take photos. I also took the time to build a snowman just because it’s fun.
While there, we saw a marriage proposal at the absolutely gorgeous setting. We ended up being the very last group to leave, and it was so peaceful. I’m really glad I made it.
The good news is that the way back is much easier because most of it is going downhill, though it’s still steep and can be challenging. Note that there is a real bathroom at the refugio, but after that, there are only two spots with questionable bathrooms, so prep yourself.
The baqueano waits for you at the refugio with the horses to ride the rest of the way back to the hotel. We got back around 7pm and were just exhausted, but in the best possible way.
Take a Relaxing Tour Via Van
We chose a less physical activity the next day to recover, and I’m glad we did. We booked the full-day Paine and Glacier tour, and I liked it far more than I thought I would.
The van has room for eight people, tray tables, footrests, and USB charging ports, so you’re comfy the entire time. Throughout the day, we would drive for about 15 to 20 minutes, stop to explore a particular area, take photos, and then move on to the next place.
Stopping at a lake to see wild flamingos was honestly worth the entire tour. I had no idea there were flamingos in Chile, let alone that they dance in the water to release shrimp from the mud. It was fascinating and hilarious at the same time.
This tour provided a great opportunity to see some of the native animals at a more relaxed pace, and there are so many animals native to Patagonia that I had never seen or heard of before. We also saw guanaco in several places, condors flying overhead, and even a distant avalanche.
We had to be at the Grey Hotel by noon to get our tickets for the glacier boat. At the embarkation point, you park and then walk about a half hour to the boat across a giant gravel plain.
My pro tip? It’s so much easier to walk on the lower part of the plain than on the central raised area. The gravel is more firmly packed, making the trek less strenuous.
The boat ride to the glacier takes about 45 minutes and is very smooth and flat, so no concerns about seasickness. We went around an absolutely gorgeous, huge iceberg, where we witnessed a second marriage proposal.
I still can’t get over the colors of the ice, its size, and the shapes the wind carved into it. We spent a good portion of the time going around it, and I pretty much filled up my camera roll just from that.
After that, we approached the glacier, where we saw two faces of it. You don’t get off the boat, but it was amazing to see all the different colors, lights, cracks, and formations in the ice, since you don’t often see active glacier fields.
Aboard the boat, your ticket provides you with a complimentary drink, including your choice of traditional or califate pisco sours, local beer, and pop. There is also a snack bar with items for purchase if you’re hungry.
It was wild how the weather changed. One moment, we had a warm breeze, and we unzipped jackets and removed hats; the next, it was freezing, and we needed to bundle up, with our gaiters pulled all the way up to cover our faces.
On the way back in the van, we stopped at the main ranger station to learn more about the region’s history and layout. Our guide gave a great overview and explanation, and this really helped me put it all together.
The last stop is a scenic lookout, but it was raining heavily there, so we skipped the views and went straight to the shelter, where our driver set up an amazing spread with cheese, meats, olives, and pickles. It is a long day, but it is entirely worth it.
Ride to the Enchanted Valley
Because I am an experienced horse person, I was excited to take an all-day trek with my favorite guide, Pamela, to the Enchanted Valley. This is the only horseback excursion not aimed at beginners.
You spend a good portion of the 19 kilometers trotting and galloping, so you really do need to be comfortable on horseback. The excursion takes you from the stables to the refugio in the Enchanted Valley, which is a one-day hike from the hotel.
The scenery is gorgeous, but I was crushed that the day was so rainy. We were within an hour of the valley when we broke for lunch and made the sad decision to head back for safety, since it was cold and still raining.
On a nicer day, this would have been my favorite excursion ever. The groups are likely far smaller because this all-day trek is so demanding, and I was actually the only person signed up the day I went.
Explore the Botanical Gardens
My last excursion was a tour of the botanical gardens just behind Hotel Las Torres. Much of the food in the restaurants and at the bar comes directly from this garden, and it was fascinating to see it.
I visited near the end of the season, so they were cleaning up many of the beds in preparation for winter. I could still see the size of what they grow, in addition to the fruit trees in the small orchard.
Their greenhouses grow an incredible array of vegetables year-round, including tomato varieties I have never seen before. It takes a ton of care to maintain them, and the workers are clearly passionate about their work, plucking off small samples to try as they explained the different vegetation.
I loved seeing the hops growing in one of the greenhouses. I had never seen them growing before, and they smelled nothing like the hops I am used to seeing in beer. Who knew?
The guide was incredibly informative and took the time to explain how it all works. She didn’t speak English fluently, but I had a separate guide who translated the parts I couldn’t follow.
To be honest, one of the things I loved about Hotel Las Torres was the care they took to ensure that both native English and native Spanish speakers were supported, both guests and employees. I had fun practicing my not (yet) fluent Spanish and being encouraged by them, while also having others with stronger English skills to step in when needed.
Rejuvenate at the Onsite Spa
The hotel also has a lovely spa on-site for an additional fee. I didn’t partake because I was so busy with my other excursions, but I definitely could have used some foot reflexology, lymphatic drainage, or a deep-tissue massage.
Interestingly, all the massage prices were the exact same, which is something I don’t typically see at luxury resorts. In addition, all treatments are discounted by 20 percent for guests who book the all-inclusive package.
The spa also includes a dry sauna for a set fee, with no discounts, but it’s pretty reasonably priced. The spa is relatively small, so don’t expect a full water circuit or even a jacuzzi, as that uses too much water for this delicate ecosystem.
Prepare for Unpredictable Patagonian Weather
You need to pack differently for Patagonia than you would for most vacations. The weather is famously unpredictable, and you really can experience all four seasons in a single afternoon.
You must bring lots of layers, smart boots, and waterproof items, no matter the season. The winds are notoriously strong in December, and it rained unusually frequently for the fall when I was there in late March.
November may be the very best time to visit, avoiding the largest crowds while still having the best chance of good weather. I loved seeing the changing leaves while I was there, but early in the season, you have the beautiful flowers and fresh califate berries, so there’s really no bad time to visit.
When it comes to packing, smart layering is the key to comfort. You need a wicking base layer, an insulating layer like a warm fleece, and a high-quality waterproof jacket to act as an outer shell.
As you hike and exert yourself, your body temperature fluctuates, so you spend the entire day unzipping and taking your jacket off, then putting it back on. You also need to bring a warm hat, reliable gloves, a neck gaiter, and pants with built-in vents.
Finally, do not try to hike in regular sneakers, though I saw some young women doing this on our hike to Torres del Paine. I strongly suggest investing in a heavy hiking boot rather than a lightweight hiking shoe if you plan to bring just one pair.
You will need the sturdy ankle support as you climb over rocks, and waterproof boots will keep your feet entirely dry when you have to walk through the shallow runoff streams that cross the trails. If you have room in your suitcase, definitely bring a pair of hiking shoes for less strenuous days.
Wake Up for the Morning Horse Drive
Another highlight for me was getting up early to see the baqueanos bringing the horses from their nighttime pasture to the stables. Watching them run in just after the sun comes up is breathtaking.
The exact time varies based on how challenging the horses are to herd down the mountain that day, but it is worth making the time to catch them, as 140 horses stream across the prairie in front of the hotel with the baqueanos urging them along.
At the end of the day, the horses go back up the mountain, and it is pretty amazing to watch that happen, too. I saw the tail end of it one day, but honestly, I was generally out on an excursion of my own as the horses returned to their pastures.
Reflecting On An Unforgettable Patagonian Adventure
Traveling to the edge of the world asks a lot of you physically, but it rewards you with vistas and memories you will never forget. Hotel Las Torres provided the absolute perfect mix of rugged outdoor adventure, local cultural immersion, and warm hospitality.
I loved every minute, even the ones where I thought I wasn’t going to make it all the way to Base del Paine. Where else can you spend your days galloping across the pampas or sipping a perfectly crafted cocktail after a long hike? This remote corner of Chile offers a true escape that will stay with you long after you return home.